I'm a bit amazed about the original question re what the *best* deck is to do a Faro..
AFAIK - I'm not the greatest faro-shuffler in the world, but I manage and can do a decent faro when I want to, after all I've done so for 40 years or so- it's not the deck that does the faro!
I am well aware off, there are certain 'strange' decks that make it almost impossible to succed, but the usually used 'brands' in the States, be it Bicycles, Tally Hoos, Bee's whatever, will always work.
There might -and is- a difference in the 'shape' these cards might be, depending on how used or misused they are, but basically I don't think one in general can say, this or that BRAND is better then the other..it also depends on how the deck is worked in, even if and when a brand new deck right out of the sealed box can be used.
Actually, as it might be known to most cardworkers, the quality of especially the Bicycles have changed enourmously throughout the years.
I've GOOD and old decks, that, when measuring the thickness of them with a high precision caliber in mm's over 52 cards, are 2mm THINNER, (approx. .078 inches) then the latest produced ones..
Using an old cardcase that is over 30 years old, one can't even insert a new deck that is those 2 mm thicker into a such cardcase, so the USPCC is well aware of that fact, they had to alter even the size/thickness of their boxes!!!!
So, also the edges of the newer produced decks are more rough then they where *in the old days'..
So, IMHO, it is impossible to state, that *this or that* BRAND is better for a perfect Faro then any other, as even production quality differs from production to production..
This is easy to understand..mind you, the tool they use to 'cut' the cards doesn't last sharp forever, after having cut thousands of cards, they have to replace it, so when at the start, using a 'new' one, the edges of the cut cards are 'sharper' and NOT that rough, whilst later productions using the same tool might have more 'rough' (I'm here talking about VERY slight differences) edges that would need a *working in* before that deck is 'good' for a smooth Faroa..
Just MHO on this subject...