A non-sticky situation

Discuss the views of your favorite Genii columnists.

Postby Nick Maggio » 01/23/08 04:27 AM

In the latest " Genii Speaks ," Richard reveals Alan Greenberg's technique for modifying coins with globs of Gorilla Glue. Attempting anything that would help me with the Classic Palm, I gave it a try. Two forms of Gorilla Glue were tried, the new, clear fast drying type and the original formulation of Polyurethane glue. The results were less than encouraging.

The globs spread during the drying time. When sanding is initiated, the glue breaks off easily.
My guess is that oils deposited on the coins through handling prevented the adhesive from tightly bonding. Maybe a bath of Naphtha would strip the coins of oil. As written, the modification is ineffective.

Richard, if Alan does not mind, would you supply his email address? More specific ideas might be forthcoming.

Thanks for trying.

Nick Maggio :help:
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Postby Bill Palmer » 01/23/08 11:59 AM

First, try cleaning all the oils off the metal. Next, dampen at least one, if not both surfaces with water. Gorilla glue reacts with moisture to bond.

I believe this information is on the label.
Bill Palmer, MIMC
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Postby castawaydave » 01/23/08 01:22 PM

Nick--
I have not received that issue yet so do not know the context, but your question about "Attempting anything that would help me with the Classic Palm..." reminded me of an old tip that has helped practice the classic palm AND in performance when your hands might be too damp or too dry to palm confidently:

Obtain a small pellet of magician's wax (maybe 1/2 a pea), and roll it around between your palms. Too much is too much, so don't over do it, but a thin "coat" of wax on your palms can help with your grip tremendously. It is only temporary, but one of those old tried and true secrets that deserves to be passed on...
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Postby rage » 01/23/08 01:36 PM

Older coins may be harder to palm because the edges around the coin may be worn down. Newer coins, as you will notice, have sharp edges making it much easier to palm. This has helped me in the past.
with an N
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Postby Nick Maggio » 01/23/08 01:43 PM

Thanks Bill and Dave. I'll try cleaning and wetting the coins and see what happens.

The idea about the magicians wax is new to me. It sounds like a very plausible solution.

In the past, I have tried any number of commerical solutions for the hands. Progrip bowling paste was too strong. The closest workable device was rubbing the coin edges with violin rosin block. However, the rosin wore off too quickly.

Never say "die", I always say.

Thanks,

Nick Maggio
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Postby Matthew Field » 01/24/08 04:11 AM

David Roth is now marketing his own brand of rosin for help with palming. he calls it Roth's Rosin and he sold out of it at Blackpool last year.

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Postby Nick Maggio » 01/24/08 05:02 AM

Matt,

David always markets quality products. He would not put his name on it if he were unsure of the results. Maybe a Genii Forum member has experience with it and could tell me the rosin's form and recommended application techniques.

Thanks for that interesting news,

Nick Maggio
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Postby George Olson » 01/24/08 09:30 AM

Go to your nearest Bowling Alley! They have a rosin product in small tins that works really well (if don't mind smelling like a pine tree).

GO
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Postby Nick Maggio » 01/24/08 12:42 PM

George,

Thanks for the tip. There is an alley near by.

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Postby Mark Pettey » 01/28/08 07:41 PM

Bill hit it on the head. I have used bottle after bottle of Gorilla Glue building props for my shows, and unless the surfaces are clean, then wetted, the glue will not work as it should. Two simple steps, but if one gets in a hurry and tries to skip them, guaranteed glue faliure. However, follow the directions, and it is one of the strongest glues on the planet. About the only thing stronger and as adapatable to a myriad of surfaces is Cool Chem's Cyanopoxy (another of my favorites). However, it does not "foam up" like Gorilla Glue.

Mark Pettey
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CiRCUS of MAGiC!
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