If you want a rubber ball with less roll, Kenton had some balls that were faceted, considerably reducing the roll. Unfortunately, the balls were too big to use for normal balls, but at 1-7/8" they would make interesting final loads. They are currently sold out, but if you want a peak at what they look like, click on Kenton\'s Krystals
Bye for now
Harold
P.S. Jim, I second the comments that Michael made, but I'd like a matching jumbo ball.
Crochet Balls
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
Jim,
My guess would be crocheted or leather covered mouse balls. They have a steel core for weight, with a rubber covering, but don't really bounce.
Am I right in guessing that a 1 inch ball becomes 1-1/8 inch after crocheting? And, as I believe Harold said, cotton thread instead of wool. I have one set in a hard-finished kind of cotton, and it's lasted much longer than the wool variety.
Here's a link for the balls:
http://www.mouseballz.com/
Looks like LMB01 would be right for 1-1/8 inchers and SMB078 would work for a hair over 7/8 inchers. Good colors would be white, deep red or deep blue.
If you decide to make these, I'd certainly take at least a few sets off of your hands.
Best,
Geoff
My guess would be crocheted or leather covered mouse balls. They have a steel core for weight, with a rubber covering, but don't really bounce.
Am I right in guessing that a 1 inch ball becomes 1-1/8 inch after crocheting? And, as I believe Harold said, cotton thread instead of wool. I have one set in a hard-finished kind of cotton, and it's lasted much longer than the wool variety.
Here's a link for the balls:
http://www.mouseballz.com/
Looks like LMB01 would be right for 1-1/8 inchers and SMB078 would work for a hair over 7/8 inchers. Good colors would be white, deep red or deep blue.
If you decide to make these, I'd certainly take at least a few sets off of your hands.
Best,
Geoff
Re: Crochet Balls
Harold;
Kenton's Krystal Balls are cool. A final load ball of real Austrian cystal would be a knock out!
Geoff, yes a 1" ball becomes 1 1/8" with a crocheted covering. Mouse balls would make good cores. I love the weight. They might work well with no covering at all. BTW - all of the crochet coverings on the balls I provide are cotton thread to avoid "pilling" - and moth problems :eek:
We need to remember that Harold wants to avoid sweaters on the balls.
Speaking of different balls for the cups...a couple years ago I ran across "rubber" dice which would work well. They looked exactly like normal hard dice; but would not talk. I'll have to see if I can locate them again.
Jim
Kenton's Krystal Balls are cool. A final load ball of real Austrian cystal would be a knock out!
Geoff, yes a 1" ball becomes 1 1/8" with a crocheted covering. Mouse balls would make good cores. I love the weight. They might work well with no covering at all. BTW - all of the crochet coverings on the balls I provide are cotton thread to avoid "pilling" - and moth problems :eek:
We need to remember that Harold wants to avoid sweaters on the balls.
Speaking of different balls for the cups...a couple years ago I ran across "rubber" dice which would work well. They looked exactly like normal hard dice; but would not talk. I'll have to see if I can locate them again.
Jim
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
I made some large monkey's fist balls for the final loads using a golf ball for the core and some colorful rope from an outdoors store. I thought they were great. My wife likes tennis balls better.
... and an off-topic remark, I just got a set of James Riser's standard cups and they are absolutely beautiful.
... and an off-topic remark, I just got a set of James Riser's standard cups and they are absolutely beautiful.
Re: Crochet Balls
Geoff, the weight of the mouseballs will create a sound problem. I haven't tried it, but I would guess that secretly dropping a mouseball into a cup will make much more noise than dropping the equivalent rubber ball.
Also, while they may still be great if you only want to use non-magnetic balls, a problem arises once you start thinking about the magnetic balls for chop cup routines. Specifically, a mouse ball weighs in at FOUR times the equivalent rubber ball. Given you won't have a magnet in the mouseball, the magnet in the chop cup would have to be around EIGHT to TEN times more powerful. So, mouseball cored balls would be virtually useless for any existing chop cup.
Jim, I don't know if these are the dice that you were thinking of, but they do make dice erasers that might work. There is very little quality control with these dice and they will range in size from 3/4" to 1", and aren't quite cubes. If anyone wants to buy some of these, have a look at Northeast Imports . The dice are available in orange, blue, pink and a few other colours.
Although I haven't used them, Mike Roger's baseballs had the right idea. They had the right size and feel, but I don't know what the weight was like. The problem was that if you didn't want to use little baseballs, they did not come in the right colors combinations(ie, stitching color matching ball cover). Also, the balls didn't come in enough colors (like Geoff said, you need at least three). Finally, the chop balls didn't have the right configuration (two half-sized magnets to maintain a single external pole opposite to the magnet in the cup).
Bye for now
Harold
Also, while they may still be great if you only want to use non-magnetic balls, a problem arises once you start thinking about the magnetic balls for chop cup routines. Specifically, a mouse ball weighs in at FOUR times the equivalent rubber ball. Given you won't have a magnet in the mouseball, the magnet in the chop cup would have to be around EIGHT to TEN times more powerful. So, mouseball cored balls would be virtually useless for any existing chop cup.
Jim, I don't know if these are the dice that you were thinking of, but they do make dice erasers that might work. There is very little quality control with these dice and they will range in size from 3/4" to 1", and aren't quite cubes. If anyone wants to buy some of these, have a look at Northeast Imports . The dice are available in orange, blue, pink and a few other colours.
Although I haven't used them, Mike Roger's baseballs had the right idea. They had the right size and feel, but I don't know what the weight was like. The problem was that if you didn't want to use little baseballs, they did not come in the right colors combinations(ie, stitching color matching ball cover). Also, the balls didn't come in enough colors (like Geoff said, you need at least three). Finally, the chop balls didn't have the right configuration (two half-sized magnets to maintain a single external pole opposite to the magnet in the cup).
Bye for now
Harold
Re: Crochet Balls
Harold;
The dice were clear silicone(?) (in colors) and looked exactly like the hard plastic dice normally seen. I ran across them at a gift trade show; but got distracted and never got around to ordering a gross or so. I have not seen them since.
Jim
The dice were clear silicone(?) (in colors) and looked exactly like the hard plastic dice normally seen. I ran across them at a gift trade show; but got distracted and never got around to ordering a gross or so. I have not seen them since.
Jim
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
Harold,
I'm not worried about the noise; between the rubber and crocheting, combined with a shallow angle on the load I think they'd be quiet enough. I agree about the chop cup situation, but for straight cups, I think the mouse balls have the most potential.
If they aren't covered, though, they have to be painted or colored in some way, as they are a really dull, ugly grey color. Maybe latex paint?
I have the Rogers baseballs, and the weight is ok, but still not as heavy as I'd like. I'm going to try an experiment on them soon; I bought some leather prep and dyes of various colours and I'm going to try to strip and redye them. I'll follow that up with a good coat of polish worked in and see what they look like.
Best,
Geoff
I'm not worried about the noise; between the rubber and crocheting, combined with a shallow angle on the load I think they'd be quiet enough. I agree about the chop cup situation, but for straight cups, I think the mouse balls have the most potential.
If they aren't covered, though, they have to be painted or colored in some way, as they are a really dull, ugly grey color. Maybe latex paint?
I have the Rogers baseballs, and the weight is ok, but still not as heavy as I'd like. I'm going to try an experiment on them soon; I bought some leather prep and dyes of various colours and I'm going to try to strip and redye them. I'll follow that up with a good coat of polish worked in and see what they look like.
Best,
Geoff
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Bill Mullins
- Posts: 5915
- Joined: January 17th, 2008, 12:00 pm
- Location: Huntsville, AL
- Contact:
Re: Crochet Balls
Hackey Sacks
Re: Crochet Balls
"Bollocks (balls) said the Queen, if I had 'em, I'd be King."
I must say the best of the lot are a set of balls made for my by my late pal Mike Rogers. He did them with the baseball leather "inside out" so they are rough textured.
More thinking... why not use cherries or fake olives or toy socker balls? A visit to hardware and/or toy stores might solve your problems.
Keep on lookin... :eek:
I must say the best of the lot are a set of balls made for my by my late pal Mike Rogers. He did them with the baseball leather "inside out" so they are rough textured.
More thinking... why not use cherries or fake olives or toy socker balls? A visit to hardware and/or toy stores might solve your problems.
Keep on lookin... :eek:
Stay tooned.
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
"Nay," said the King, "for it takes twelve inches to make a Ruler!"Originally posted by Pete Biro:
"Bollocks (balls) said the Queen, if I had 'em, I'd be King."
I must say the best of the lot are a set of balls made for my by my late pal Mike Rogers. He did them with the baseball leather "inside out" so they are rough textured.
More thinking... why not use cherries or fake olives or toy socker balls? A visit to hardware and/or toy stores might solve your problems.
Keep on lookin... :eek:
Mr. Biro, you are MY kind of rogue! And your taste in poetry is as low as mine. I gotta respect a guy who can quote "The Night of the King's Castration!"
Kind regards,
Lee Darrow, C.Ht.
http://www.leedarrow.com
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
"Nuts" said the knave; "I got 'em, and I aint".Originally posted by Pete Biro:
"Bollocks (balls) said the Queen, if I had 'em, I'd be King."
Cordially,
Geoff
Re: Crochet Balls
Ignoring the size issue, hacky sacks are hard to palm as they don't have a solid core. A miniature not-quite-round baseball is the next step up.
As Geoff bought up the matter of painting rubber balls, here are some tips for those who want to paint their balls:
- Trim the ball with a scapel blade. Most rubber balls have a visible seam.
- Frank Garcia (in Real Secrets of the 3 Ball Routine) says to place the ball on a pin, but I found this didn't give me enough control when painting. Instead, I take a piece of stiff thin wire and create a v. Now take the ends and bend the last inch at a right angle. Now stick these ends into to ball. Strangely enough, if the wire is ferrous, this method also works for magnetic balls. Put the magnets into the ball and then let the magnets attach themselves to the ends.
- If you can, you want to dip the balls in a very weak solution of hydrochloric acid. This takes the shine of the ball and makes the subsequent paint stick better. If you don't want to do this, then cover the balls with a very thin layer of polyurethane. If you don't want to do this then use sandpaper to rough up the ball. If you are using a mouseball, you can ignore this phase as the ball is rough enough for the next stage.
- Once the ball is primed, you can now paint it with enamel paint. I have used both spray and liquid paint.
(1) Never use nail polish; Frank said to use clear nail polish to give the final coating, but this gives a VERY sticky ball and it eventually cracks!
(2) Using enamel spray is the easiest method. But, as the instructions say, use several light coats rather than one heavy one. You won't get anywhere near a full coverage with the first coat (you'll get about 50%), and you'll be tempted to keep trying until the whole ball is covered. It's not recommended, but it'll work fine. However, this heavy coat will cause the paint to drip to a point which you should clean up with enamel thinner right away. Also, try and get the quick dry spray paint (as this is ready for a second coat in 5 minutes).
(3) Humbrol or AirFix enamel is the only enamel paint that I have used. However, don't use it straight out of the can. It is far too thick (and will never dry). Instead, mix the paint with enamel thinner and get it to a very runny consistency. This will then go on smoothly and dry quickly. A brush will give you better control in coverage than the spray, but it takes much longer to cover a ball.
- Repeat with 2 or 3 coats. However, be warned that you can't touch up the enamel spray with the equivalent liquid paint. These are not the same color when dry! (This is very annoying!) Also, don't let the balls come in contact with one another until you have given them the polyurethance coating as the paint from two touching balls will stick to one of them.
- Finally, give the balls a coat of polyurethane. I have used the spray, but as always be careful of the drip. The resulting balls have the perfect tackiness.
Geoff mentioned latex paint, but I have never used it.
Bye for now
Harold
As Geoff bought up the matter of painting rubber balls, here are some tips for those who want to paint their balls:
- Trim the ball with a scapel blade. Most rubber balls have a visible seam.
- Frank Garcia (in Real Secrets of the 3 Ball Routine) says to place the ball on a pin, but I found this didn't give me enough control when painting. Instead, I take a piece of stiff thin wire and create a v. Now take the ends and bend the last inch at a right angle. Now stick these ends into to ball. Strangely enough, if the wire is ferrous, this method also works for magnetic balls. Put the magnets into the ball and then let the magnets attach themselves to the ends.
- If you can, you want to dip the balls in a very weak solution of hydrochloric acid. This takes the shine of the ball and makes the subsequent paint stick better. If you don't want to do this, then cover the balls with a very thin layer of polyurethane. If you don't want to do this then use sandpaper to rough up the ball. If you are using a mouseball, you can ignore this phase as the ball is rough enough for the next stage.
- Once the ball is primed, you can now paint it with enamel paint. I have used both spray and liquid paint.
(1) Never use nail polish; Frank said to use clear nail polish to give the final coating, but this gives a VERY sticky ball and it eventually cracks!
(2) Using enamel spray is the easiest method. But, as the instructions say, use several light coats rather than one heavy one. You won't get anywhere near a full coverage with the first coat (you'll get about 50%), and you'll be tempted to keep trying until the whole ball is covered. It's not recommended, but it'll work fine. However, this heavy coat will cause the paint to drip to a point which you should clean up with enamel thinner right away. Also, try and get the quick dry spray paint (as this is ready for a second coat in 5 minutes).
(3) Humbrol or AirFix enamel is the only enamel paint that I have used. However, don't use it straight out of the can. It is far too thick (and will never dry). Instead, mix the paint with enamel thinner and get it to a very runny consistency. This will then go on smoothly and dry quickly. A brush will give you better control in coverage than the spray, but it takes much longer to cover a ball.
- Repeat with 2 or 3 coats. However, be warned that you can't touch up the enamel spray with the equivalent liquid paint. These are not the same color when dry! (This is very annoying!) Also, don't let the balls come in contact with one another until you have given them the polyurethance coating as the paint from two touching balls will stick to one of them.
- Finally, give the balls a coat of polyurethane. I have used the spray, but as always be careful of the drip. The resulting balls have the perfect tackiness.
Geoff mentioned latex paint, but I have never used it.
Bye for now
Harold
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
Since I (thanks to the new DVD set) have just swerved into that amazing spectacle that is Tommy Wonder, I just made a set of wool Pom Pom balls, as per the instructions from his 20-year-old Jos Bema manuscript.
They are nice--and much more dense than I expected. And you cannot hear them hit anything. If Nerf crimes were an Al-Queida possibility, then we would be in trouble.
Anybody else here ever made these before? My three took me about seven hours, after making the cardboard templates.
They are nice--and much more dense than I expected. And you cannot hear them hit anything. If Nerf crimes were an Al-Queida possibility, then we would be in trouble.
Anybody else here ever made these before? My three took me about seven hours, after making the cardboard templates.
Re: Crochet Balls
Jos Bema book is great (also Tommy Wonder's stuff as well)!
Independently, I came up with a similar idea.
I used the cups and balls bag, wadded up, as a final load item.
Think about it. Less work to make too. :D
Independently, I came up with a similar idea.
I used the cups and balls bag, wadded up, as a final load item.
Think about it. Less work to make too. :D
Stay tooned.
Re: Crochet Balls
Whhilst on the subject "balls" or, rather "cups and balls" -- here is another of my creations.
I found that a P&L drumhead tube extra load would fit into a Paul Fox(R) cup.
So... filled with rice, covered with flash paper and used as a final load in a one cup routine.
Held over a small candle on the table, the flash paper went off and the rice dumped out putting out the flame.
Lately I figure you don't need flash paper, just tissue and you can poke hole in it with fingernail and POUR out a load of salt, rice, or whatever....
Hmmm... maybe waxed paper holding in WINE???
RISER... LET'S MAKE SOME OF THESE UP FOR VARIOUS CUP SIZES. :genii:
I found that a P&L drumhead tube extra load would fit into a Paul Fox(R) cup.
So... filled with rice, covered with flash paper and used as a final load in a one cup routine.
Held over a small candle on the table, the flash paper went off and the rice dumped out putting out the flame.
Lately I figure you don't need flash paper, just tissue and you can poke hole in it with fingernail and POUR out a load of salt, rice, or whatever....
Hmmm... maybe waxed paper holding in WINE???
RISER... LET'S MAKE SOME OF THESE UP FOR VARIOUS CUP SIZES. :genii:
Stay tooned.
Re: Crochet Balls
Martin Lewis has a variation that I use for my dice stacking routine. The clever bit is that the bottom of the loading tube (which remains on the table) is designed to look like the load (lots of little dice). As a result, there's no paper to get rid of.
In an ideal world, Jim could make a load insert that matched the inside of the cup (allowing the magi to flash the inside of the cup at the end). :eek:
Bye for now
Harold
In an ideal world, Jim could make a load insert that matched the inside of the cup (allowing the magi to flash the inside of the cup at the end). :eek:
Bye for now
Harold
Re: Crochet Balls
Pete;Originally posted by Pete Biro:
RISER... LET'S MAKE SOME OF THESE UP FOR VARIOUS CUP SIZES. :genii:
What's this "LET'S" stuff? Why is it that most of the time we is spelled with an "m"?
I'm looking at the practical side of making these for several different types of cups. Let's see, that's one steel spinning chuck for each gimmick at a day each to make. A spun retaining ring for each is another spinning chuck for each size. The project is doable; but highly time consuming ($) to get set up for production.
Have you done a marketing survey yet to determine how many of each size cup gimmick we could expect to sell and to determine if the things are worth tooling up to make?
BIRO - let's get going on this :D
Jim
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
See Jim? Wouldn't it be so much easier just to make the balls?
Just kidding. Sort of. No, really....
Best,
Geoff
Just kidding. Sort of. No, really....
Best,
Geoff
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
Pete,
I spoke too soon. . .
I truly thought that I had everything covered, but I neglected to check and see if the balls I made would nest--they wouldn't--they are too big. So while they are perfect for the routine proper, they will not reset (or set, for tha matter in either my JES Squatties or my Sisti Cups). If I try to make some that are any smaller, then I fear that I will lose that one characteristic required of that particular routine. Now's the time for me to actually need a taller cup.
Anybody know what kind of cups Tommy uses for that routine?
I spoke too soon. . .
I truly thought that I had everything covered, but I neglected to check and see if the balls I made would nest--they wouldn't--they are too big. So while they are perfect for the routine proper, they will not reset (or set, for tha matter in either my JES Squatties or my Sisti Cups). If I try to make some that are any smaller, then I fear that I will lose that one characteristic required of that particular routine. Now's the time for me to actually need a taller cup.
Anybody know what kind of cups Tommy uses for that routine?
Re: Crochet Balls
You want the perfect cups? Buy my Johnny Paul cups. You can do Paul's routine, Tommy's etc. and Kaps' -- sponge balls will "pick up" off one cup by covering and lifting off with a cup.
Email me at petebiro@aol.com for a Genii special price. You can see them on Riser's site.
Email me at petebiro@aol.com for a Genii special price. You can see them on Riser's site.
Stay tooned.
Re: Crochet Balls
Actually, Pete's Johnny Paul Cups are quite nice and a steal at his price ;)
Jim
Jim
Re: Crochet Balls
Since I don't like "stealing" maybe I should raise the price??? :confused: :D :confused: :D
Retail is $155 (but NO BALLS)... (NO BAG)...
Hey a shoe shine kit makes a great case for 'em. :D
Retail is $155 (but NO BALLS)... (NO BAG)...
Hey a shoe shine kit makes a great case for 'em. :D
Stay tooned.
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John Smetana
- Posts: 264
- Joined: January 17th, 2008, 12:00 pm
- Location: Morganville, NJ
- Contact:
Re: Crochet Balls
Sixty one posts, and this makes sixty two, about balls...wow!
Best thoughts,
John Smetana
Best thoughts,
John Smetana
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
Pete,
My Jes cups are barely two months old. I love them. They also cost me a sum, that, while reasonable as far as cups go, are only reasonable in our subjective world. This is a nice diplomatic way of saying "my wife will not hear of a third set of cups at this economic juncture."
Now, necessity being what it is, I fooled around and discovered that it is possible to make balls that perform the needed task for Tommy's two-cup routine(while housed in the Paul Fox strain of cups). For those familiar with the process:
The cardboard template should have an outside diameter of 1 3/4", and the inside diameter, 1". Do the wrapping, make the cuts, and trim to 1 1/4". These are perfect. I've also discovered that I could make killer small balls out of wool, for routines like Aldo's mamma Mia cups and balls--these pom poms are really tight and dense.
I'm still pining for new cups. . .
My Jes cups are barely two months old. I love them. They also cost me a sum, that, while reasonable as far as cups go, are only reasonable in our subjective world. This is a nice diplomatic way of saying "my wife will not hear of a third set of cups at this economic juncture."
Now, necessity being what it is, I fooled around and discovered that it is possible to make balls that perform the needed task for Tommy's two-cup routine(while housed in the Paul Fox strain of cups). For those familiar with the process:
The cardboard template should have an outside diameter of 1 3/4", and the inside diameter, 1". Do the wrapping, make the cuts, and trim to 1 1/4". These are perfect. I've also discovered that I could make killer small balls out of wool, for routines like Aldo's mamma Mia cups and balls--these pom poms are really tight and dense.
I'm still pining for new cups. . .
Re: Crochet Balls
I had to laugh... I finally found someone who could make small baseballs, and could do customised jobs. "Could you do them with mouse ball cores?" I asked. Needless to say, she thought I meant rodent's testicles, and was very puzzled by my request. She replied with "Won't they be too small or are you going to put a few of them in one ball?" :D
Bye for now
Harold
Bye for now
Harold
Re: Crochet Balls
Pete mentioned using drumhead tubes as a final load. The following DIY ideas should work for all cups.
Get some yarn and use it to fill the inside grooves of your cup. That is, you want to create a smooth interior (as will become clearer as you read on).
(1) Vacuum Forming Method
Line the inside of your cup with cling film. Try and minimize the creases in the cup. To get a perfect fit, use strips of cling film. Once you've done that, pour casting plaster into the cup (filling it to the rim). Put the cup aside for a few hours while the plaster dries. Now, if you correctly filled in all the internal gaps, just turn the cup over and you'll have a solid model of the interior of your cup. If you missed a bit, then the plaster will be trapped in the cup and you'll have to hack it out :eek:
Make sure that the resulting plaster shape is smooth, and patch or sand it. Now find someone who does vacuum forming. They will place a bit of warm plastic over your plaster mold and fit it using a vacuum. The result is a shell that fits perfectly into your cup. To create the drumhead, just stick some tissue paper on the mouth of the shell. Paint the shell flesh colored (if desired)and you've got a perfect final load.
(2) Latex Rubber Method
Proceed as above. However, when you make the plaster mold, embed a hook in the plaster. Now, instead of finding a vacuum former, buy some latex. Put the latex in a bowl and dip the plaster form three of four times (or pour latex to completely cover the plaster shape). After each dip, hang it from the hook to let it dry. What you now have is a thick balloon that will be a perfect fit for your cup. Cut away the base of the form, and (if desired) put some wire in the form so that it will hold it's shape. Again, stick some tissue paper on.
(3) Paper Packing Tape Method.
Again line your cup with cling film, but this time, instead of pouring plaster into the cup, buy some paper packing tape. The type that I am talking about comes in a roll about 3 inches wide. It is made of brown paper, but it is gummed so you wet it and stick it in place. Now cut strips about one inch wide and about one inch longer than the hide of your cup. Did these strips in water and then start lining your cup with these strips. Effectively, you are creating a papier mache shell. Keep putting strips on until you've acheived the desired thickness.
If there are any question on any of these methods, pm me for more details.
Bye for now
Harold
Get some yarn and use it to fill the inside grooves of your cup. That is, you want to create a smooth interior (as will become clearer as you read on).
(1) Vacuum Forming Method
Line the inside of your cup with cling film. Try and minimize the creases in the cup. To get a perfect fit, use strips of cling film. Once you've done that, pour casting plaster into the cup (filling it to the rim). Put the cup aside for a few hours while the plaster dries. Now, if you correctly filled in all the internal gaps, just turn the cup over and you'll have a solid model of the interior of your cup. If you missed a bit, then the plaster will be trapped in the cup and you'll have to hack it out :eek:
Make sure that the resulting plaster shape is smooth, and patch or sand it. Now find someone who does vacuum forming. They will place a bit of warm plastic over your plaster mold and fit it using a vacuum. The result is a shell that fits perfectly into your cup. To create the drumhead, just stick some tissue paper on the mouth of the shell. Paint the shell flesh colored (if desired)and you've got a perfect final load.
(2) Latex Rubber Method
Proceed as above. However, when you make the plaster mold, embed a hook in the plaster. Now, instead of finding a vacuum former, buy some latex. Put the latex in a bowl and dip the plaster form three of four times (or pour latex to completely cover the plaster shape). After each dip, hang it from the hook to let it dry. What you now have is a thick balloon that will be a perfect fit for your cup. Cut away the base of the form, and (if desired) put some wire in the form so that it will hold it's shape. Again, stick some tissue paper on.
(3) Paper Packing Tape Method.
Again line your cup with cling film, but this time, instead of pouring plaster into the cup, buy some paper packing tape. The type that I am talking about comes in a roll about 3 inches wide. It is made of brown paper, but it is gummed so you wet it and stick it in place. Now cut strips about one inch wide and about one inch longer than the hide of your cup. Did these strips in water and then start lining your cup with these strips. Effectively, you are creating a papier mache shell. Keep putting strips on until you've acheived the desired thickness.
If there are any question on any of these methods, pm me for more details.
Bye for now
Harold
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
Pete,
I am interested in the Johnny Paul cup dimensions, if you would be so kind.
regards,
Ron
I am interested in the Johnny Paul cup dimensions, if you would be so kind.
regards,
Ron
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
I still find Mike Rogers' mini baseballs to be my favorite... I have 2 different sizes in 2 red and white, so depending on the size cups or lighting at the venue, I have options.
I love the weight, lay folk love them, and the noise and rol factors are lower than rubber, they are VERY easy to palm... Plus they are just really cool and fun to handle!
Best-
Jeff
I love the weight, lay folk love them, and the noise and rol factors are lower than rubber, they are VERY easy to palm... Plus they are just really cool and fun to handle!
Best-
Jeff
Re: Crochet Balls
Yes, Jeff, the baseballs are probably the best of the available bunch. But, for me, the problem is that no one does customized versions. For example, the Rogers chop balls aren't configured correctly for my cup. Also, I want red, white and blue balls.
I'm looking at some iron-on thread that looks interesting. It is soft (like licorice), but when you iron it, it sets hard. The idea is to take any rubber ball, put on a "webbing" and then iron it to create a cage. The cage would reduce the roll and the bounce of the ball.
Bye for now
Harold
I'm looking at some iron-on thread that looks interesting. It is soft (like licorice), but when you iron it, it sets hard. The idea is to take any rubber ball, put on a "webbing" and then iron it to create a cage. The cage would reduce the roll and the bounce of the ball.
Bye for now
Harold
Re: Crochet Balls
Well, I found someone who can make leather covered balls (baseballs) in virtually any size, weight and color. The price is expensive, but you can get exactly what you want. The costs?
- A 1" ball costs 20 euros ($23.60)
- A 2" ball costs 40 euros ($47.20)
Note that this price is for each ball, not a set of four!
The website is Cups and Balls - Holland . Click on products, then cups, and finally scroll down to the bottom of the page. If you want to see some pictures of other colors and sizes, pm me and I will send you a picture.
As you will see, Auke van Dokkum makes some interesting cups (CNC machined, not spun).
Bye for now
Harold
- A 1" ball costs 20 euros ($23.60)
- A 2" ball costs 40 euros ($47.20)
Note that this price is for each ball, not a set of four!
The website is Cups and Balls - Holland . Click on products, then cups, and finally scroll down to the bottom of the page. If you want to see some pictures of other colors and sizes, pm me and I will send you a picture.
As you will see, Auke van Dokkum makes some interesting cups (CNC machined, not spun).
Bye for now
Harold
Re: Crochet Balls
Auke was at the last World Magic Seminar in Las Vegas. He has a huge precision machine shop and devoted a day here and there to making magic props (CNC metal work) and is expanding his line as he nears retiring. :D
Stay tooned.
Re: Crochet Balls
http://www.jedinat-zaubershop.de/shop/s ... rid400.htm
May be of interest around here!!
Haven't seen them in thefleah, as it were, but there's some variety for anyone wanting colour.
May be of interest around here!!
Haven't seen them in thefleah, as it were, but there's some variety for anyone wanting colour.
Re: Crochet Balls
"...in thefleah" - thats the gaelic in me - in the flesh, of course.
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
Was excited when I first discovered Zaubershop but very disappointed that they did not respond to email questions...many weeks old.
Re: Crochet Balls
The "Professor" had the right idea with rolled-up toilet paper, but should have carried it a couple of steps farther. Paper table napkins, when wet and rolled and allowed to dry are just like what the old masters used--cork. Since they are not perfectly round, they do not roll, nor do they talk....
I like to make my own chop cups, sometimes with a metal shim only and a strong mag ball, but sometimes I like to experiment with the balls, by inserting steel wool and putting a stronger mag and shim in the cup....
The nice things about the napkin balls are that you can actually insert bar mags, steel wool, or other ferrous material and tailor it to your chop cup. Color and size are no problems for small or larger loads. Easter dye and more napkin solve those problems.
One can find corks suitable, but it is easier to load a mag in a rolled-up piece of paper than it is in a cork....(and then, of course, you would need to find an old lamp to darken the cork...tsk tsk....)
A couple of the dollar stores I have found in Austin have packages of various-sized bounce balls, but, for the reasons given by some people here who have actually tried them out, the balls have a tendency to get away from you....The larger ones are great, however, as they have a slight tacky feel to them and are easily loaded into cups...
...hope that helps....opie
I like to make my own chop cups, sometimes with a metal shim only and a strong mag ball, but sometimes I like to experiment with the balls, by inserting steel wool and putting a stronger mag and shim in the cup....
The nice things about the napkin balls are that you can actually insert bar mags, steel wool, or other ferrous material and tailor it to your chop cup. Color and size are no problems for small or larger loads. Easter dye and more napkin solve those problems.
One can find corks suitable, but it is easier to load a mag in a rolled-up piece of paper than it is in a cork....(and then, of course, you would need to find an old lamp to darken the cork...tsk tsk....)
A couple of the dollar stores I have found in Austin have packages of various-sized bounce balls, but, for the reasons given by some people here who have actually tried them out, the balls have a tendency to get away from you....The larger ones are great, however, as they have a slight tacky feel to them and are easily loaded into cups...
...hope that helps....opie
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Guest
Re: Crochet Balls
For the past two weeks, I've been working with the Jim Riser Traditional Cups and the leather, knotted balls which he makes.
I find the balls a dream to work with. They "talk" very little, palm easilly, and look classy without looking like something made especially for magic.
You can see pictures of them on Jim's web site.
(The link is earlier in the thread.)
I'm getting ready to shoot the pictures for an updated version of my Cups and Balls routine. And yes, the name Busby will not appear in the new edition!
While they last, you can still get the old (1985) edition from L & L or from my website for a mere $7.50 plus shipping. (Forgive the plug.)
Dennis Loomis
www.loomismagic.com
I find the balls a dream to work with. They "talk" very little, palm easilly, and look classy without looking like something made especially for magic.
You can see pictures of them on Jim's web site.
(The link is earlier in the thread.)
I'm getting ready to shoot the pictures for an updated version of my Cups and Balls routine. And yes, the name Busby will not appear in the new edition!
While they last, you can still get the old (1985) edition from L & L or from my website for a mere $7.50 plus shipping. (Forgive the plug.)
Dennis Loomis
www.loomismagic.com
Re: Crochet Balls
wcb39 - I stumbled across the site, so have not done any business with them, but after seeing your post, I sent in an email asking if still in business (so many weblinks are dead!), and if they took PayPal...
<< yes, we are still dealing and are looking forward to your order. Sorry, we don't except paypal. You can either pay by visa or mastercard.
Best regards,
Heike Hellwig >>
cheers
<< yes, we are still dealing and are looking forward to your order. Sorry, we don't except paypal. You can either pay by visa or mastercard.
Best regards,
Heike Hellwig >>
cheers
Re: Crochet Balls
Thanks for the reference, Brendan. This was a new reference for me. The balls are just over 1.1" in diameter, and at just under $24 for a set of four, they're very reasonably priced. I'll definitely be getting a set for my 3 ball routine. It should be pointed out that they also do chop balls, but I wonder if they'll let me provide the inner core or if they do larger balls.
Bye for now
Harold
Bye for now
Harold