Care and Feeding of Metal Cups

[Bill Wheeler]

I have some cups (copper) that were sitting in a cabinet that I would like to remove the tarnish off of. Is there a good/proper way to go about doing this? I'd hate to do something like in the "Antiques Roadshow" where I cleaned it improperly or removed a finish and my item isn't worth as much as a consequence.

Thanks in advance,

Bill

[Pete Biro]

If you want the shine instead of the olde patina, a good, gentle product is WRIGHT'S COPPER CREAM.

[Guest]

According to Brett Sherwood's site a recommended cleaner for brass and copper cups is "an automotive cleaner called "NevR Dull"...It is chemically-treated cotton wadding that comes in a tin. It is used by classic automobile devotees to keep the chrome sparkling on their automobiles. I am told it does a fantastic job on brass and copper. In fact, it apparently cleans better than Brasso and other cleaners. The NevR Dull cotton turns black and removes even more grime. (Note: Not for use on silver or gold plating)."

[sleightly]

Let me second NevR Dull.. I use it to clean my brass linking rings. It is incredibly fast and puts a beautiful shine on the dullest metal with very little effort...

ajp

[Guest]

Some random thoughts.
Someone told me about a produt called SemiChrome.
It was available long ago at Coast to Coast stores.
It shines anything to an amazing level.
Can't compare it to anything like above because I haven't seen them.
I used it on my coins. They looked like they were coated with mercury.
Made my cups glisten also.
But beware!!!
I shined up my coins for when I did the Castle long ago.
Someone told me my coins kept vanishing and reappearing on the table when I wasn't touching them.
They reflected so well that when my black suit was behind the coins they reflected so well the coins disappeared into my black close up pad.
There is another problem with shinny cups.
If the surface of the cup is mirror like, the surface will reflect balls palmed in you hand as the hand approaches the cup to pick it up.
I discovred this during a performance when a cute lady pointed at my hand and said, "I see the ball in your hand."
I will tell you that makes you feel great.
Zombie balls suffer the same problem if given a mirror finish. They disappear.
Al Schneider

[Guest]

Mr. Schneider is correct. Stop trying for mirror-like reflectivity. You want maximum visibility! Try DULLING the finish instead, and your props' visibility goes WAY up! Try thinking like a theatrical designer, not trying to have the shiniest toys! Just my 2 cents. --Mitch Dutton

[John M. Dale]

I hate to be the dissenter but I was disappointed in my experience with a product called NevR-Dull. It seemed to have a gritty substance in it that put extremely fine hairline scratches on my Riser Mini Cups. (Some of you may cringe but Brasso came to the rescue, which is what James had originally suggested I use.)

I used Eagle One Original Nevr-Dull that I picked up at Pep Boys ( here is their website) It has the Registered Trademark symbol followed by "The George Basch Co., Inc." at the bottom of the back of the can so I assumed it was the same as this product only marketed by Eagle One.

Does anyone know if my assumption is correct? Has anyone compared the two products?

I was originally going to let my Mini Cups develop a patina but waiting to get past the "fingerprint" stage was driving me nuts. Maybe I'm too impatient

JMD